The First Ascent of Korlang Pari Tippa North, Nepal

On the 11th November, a small team led by Brian Jackson headed to Nepal to attempt a previously unclimbed mountain. This would be Expedition Wise’s 5th Unclimbed Peak Expedition and Brian’s 6th first ascent in Nepal.

After a very bumpy 12 hrs on a bus from Kathmandu the Team arrived in Lambagar, a Sherpa village in the North - South Rolwalling Valley, one of the 7 hidden valleys of Nepal and home of the Yeti.

From Lambagar, they trekked with their support crew that consisted of 9 porters, 2 climbing Sherpas (Mingma Dorje Sherpa and Mindu Sherpa), 3 cook crew and 1 cook (Amrit Rai) from Lukla region. They also had 5 local porters for 4 days to the last village of Lapche where the Valley splits. At this point the local porters would leave them to return to Lambagar.

They spent the next day trekking into the deep gorge, following the steep sides along an old trail. Here they experienced a slight detour due to the path being changed onto the other side of the river! Arriving at Thasing Kharka in the mid afternoon they enjoyed a wonderfully cooked dinner before heading to sleep in their tents.



Over the next few days the route led them out of the gorge and past the settlement of Thanchhemu. Here the valley opened up as they reached the two river valleys descending from the Tibetan plateau. It was then that they received their first view of the large snow-peaked mountains.

They spend half a day resting in Lapche (3,800m) the root of Buddhism and the place that many Tibetans and Nepali make pilgrimage to, as it is one of the 24 most holy sites in Tibet and Nepal. Here they are now only a stone's throw from the Tibetan border which lies a couple of kilometres away.

On the 6th day the team reached their Base Camp having ascended to 4,800m. Here they stood in awe as they looked up at the mountain they would attempt to climb. 

For the next few days the Team rested at Base Camp, took part in a Puja ceremony and practised jumar work to prepare for the climb. They looked at the possible route options to the summit and took in the beautiful surroundings. With their feet in Nepal it was astonishing to think that Tibet lay just the other side of the mountain.

The next day was spent trekking up to their Advanced Base Camp at the high lake (5,400m), where views of the summit came into sight. Nervous and excited by the prospect of attempting the summit in the next couple of days, it was incredible to think that they had reached territory that no one had been to before.

Until then they had to rest and prepare for what looked like a tough ascent up very difficult terrain. Korlang Pari Tippa lay just before them with an East and West summit on the 500m long ridge. They looked at the East summit as it was the highest but could not see a route up the twin towers of broken shattered blocks as it is practically unclimbable. They decided to climb the lower West summit, which still had falling rock and difficult shattered rock traverses.

In the early hours of Sunday 25th November, the team awoke and headed out under a clear, moonlit sky. Summit day had arrived and with it favourable weather conditions. There was no need for head torches as the full moon illuminated the landscape as they walked to the start point of their ascent.



The going was tough as they used fixed lines to help them jumar up the steep sections that were covered with scree and loose rock. Each step felt like they were going backwards and it took a lot of concentration to ensure each foot placement didn’t disturb the crumbling rock.

They persevered, encouraging each other as they went and by 9am the whole team had reached the summit of Korlang Pari Tippa North (5,573m). They were met with the most incredible views across Nepal & Tibet, with Shishapangma, Lhotse and Everest in clear sight.



They spent a short time at the summit appreciating their surroundings before heading back down to Advanced Base Camp. After much deserved rest they trekked to Base Camp the next day. Normally they would have spent the next week trekking out the way they had come in. However, they left in style as one of the team had very generously sorted a helicopter to fly them back to Kathmandu!

A pretty remarkable end to a rather remarkable expedition!

We would like to take this chance to say a huge than you to our wonderful support crew and our amazing Sherpas. We would not be able to do these expeditions without them and it’s always a pleasure to spend time with.

This is Brian’s 6th successful ascent in Nepal having been leading Unclimbed Peak Expeditions for the last 5 years. Although this will be the last expedition in Nepal for a while, we may have some exciting news regarding future Unclimbed Peak Expeditions…on a different continent! 

Watch this space!

5 years of Unclimbed Peak Expeditions - The highs & lows of First Ascents

On Sunday 11th November Brian, Director of Expedition Wise Ltd, flew to Nepal with a team to attempt a previously unclimbed mountain in the Rolwaling Valley. This will be Expedition Wise’s 6th Unclimbed Peak attempt since we started running them 6 years ago. Quite an achievement!

It all began in 2013 and as a way of celebrating the past 5 years of Unclimbed Peak Expeditions we thought it would be a great time to reflect on each one of these expeditions and what was involved.

2013: Chhubohe (5,640m) & Kaloche

Since Brian (Director of Expedition Wise Ltd) was 8 years of age he had always dreamt about being the first person to climb a mountain. It was a dream that lay dormant for a long time as he never thought it would be possible. Surely it’s only famous Adventurers and Explorers that have the opportunities for these types of endeavours? Surely all the mountains have already been climbed, especially in the Himalaya?

As the years passed by, he was extremely fortunate to travel the world leading charity challenges and expeditions. In doing so he helped many people achieve their dreams of climbing Kilimanjaro or trekking in some of the most breath-taking places on the planet. But for Brian, that one dream of doing a first ascent still niggled away.

In 2012 he made the decision to take the first step in achieving his dream. By 2013, along with some friends he successfully reached the summit of both Chhubohe and Kaloche in Nepal, in doing so they became the first people to stand on their summits.

Dream achieved, he returned to the UK where another dream began to form. Through conversations with others it soon came apparent that, not only did others share his dream of climbing unclimbed mountains, but he could help others achieve it. The wheels set in motion as he began researching other unclimbed mountains, possible places and feasible routes. Fast forward to the current day and Brian was helped many people achieve the unclimbed mountain dream.

Here we take a look at each one of them:

2014: Nar Phu Peak (5,930m)

In 2014 Brian led a team of 6 to attempt to complete a first ascent of Nar Phu Peak in the Nar Phu Valley, Nepal. This was certainly a roller-coaster of an expedition as there were many times when their summit dream was not looking possible. 

The approach started on the Annapurna Circuit and over the coming days they were accompanied by the most incredible views of the Annapurna massif itself. After a few days trekking they were about to head off the circuit towards the Nar Phu Valley where they were to climb to the high pass before making their way to Base Camp. 

Their plan hit a stand point as they heard that this route was impassable due to 6ft snowdrifts. A couple of weeks prior to their expedition the area had been hit by a terrible snow storm, unusual for the time of year and unexpected. Suddenly the summit dream seemed to fade. However, after much time spent poring over the maps a new route to basecamp was found. 

They continued on the circuit before leaving the beaten track up to a newly created intermediate camp before a huge day of ascent up to Kang La Pass (5320m). From here the walk to base camp was incredibly hard due to deep snow but they got there and what a stunning place it was.  

After a day of rest, the Sherpas headed toward the mountain to see if they could spy a route past a huge hanging glacier. Watching them through binoculars, the team’s hearts dropped as they watched them stop in front of the glacier and begin to walk back. It looked like they were unable to find a route. It became apparent to the team that they wouldn’t even be able to get anywhere near the mountain, never mind the summit.

They waited for the Sherpas to return with the bad news but spirits soared as they were told a clear route has easily been spotted and should pose no problem. The first ascent of Nar Phu Peak was underway!

Summit day brought with it incredibly cold temperatures of -23 as they set out in the early hours to start their climb. It was an incredibly long day, with tough conditions. 

The wind began to pick up dropping the temperatures to -45 as they ascended, not to mention the affects of altitude. Still, the team continued with steep gradients, false summits and crevasses. It was only when they could just about see the top of the summit that once again the attempt was stopped in its tracks. A snow bridge with a huge drop either side was all that stood between them and the last 100 metres to the summit. 

Would it be passable? After much deliberation, reading of conditions, structure etc. it was decided that it looked safe enough to cross. Fortunately it was and within the hour the whole team had reached the summit of Nar Phu Peak (5930m)! They looked across the stunning mountain that covered the landscape of Nepal and in to Tibet. A safe ascent and an incredible helicopter flight back to Pokhara before flying back to Kathmandu was the cherry on the cake for this successful unclimbed peak expedition.

2015:Expedition Postponed

Brian was due to lead a team on another Unclimbed Peak Expedition in November of 2015 but sadly this was not to be. In April 25th  an earthquake that was measured at 8.1 on the Richter Scale struck Nepal, causing absolute devastation. The quake caused landslides and avalanches on the mountains, including Everest. 

Many people lost their lives and communities suffered loss and destruction to their homes and land. It was heart-breaking to hear. In September 2015 it was decided that the best thing to do would be to postpone the Unclimbed Peak Expedition and instead focus on ways to help the people of Nepal recover from the terrible event. Brian started fundraising for ShelterBox who deliver aid to those who need it in times of disaster and whom were pivotal in working with the Nepalese communities who had been hit the hardest.

2016: Omi Tso Go (6,332m)

Whilst researching unclimbed peaks for the past expeditions one name kept popping up. It was a mountain called ‘Omi Tso Go’ in the Rolwaling Himal. At 6,332m and previously unclimbed, it looked like the perfect challenge. In April Brian and his climbing partner returned to Nepal to attempt a first ascent. Arriving in Kathmandu they saw the destruction that was left by the earthquake but also saw the resilience of the Nepalese people as they rebuilt their lives. 

Walking through the mountain villages the destruction was even more apparent as they past evidence of landslide, ruins where homes once stood and people still living in tents. However, further evidence of their resilience shone through as they were greeted with warm hospitality and saw how they were rebuilding their communities bit by bit. 

Unfortunately, a successful summit was not meant to be on this occasion as weather and conditions prevented them from reaching the summit of Omi Tso Go. Although disappointed, the great news was that Brian had managed to raise a fantastic amount for ShelterBox to give back to the Nepalese community.

2016: Karbu Ri (6,010m)

Following the expedition in April, Brian headed back to Nepal the following November to lead a team of 13 on their Unclimbed Peak Expedition. The objective this time was a mountain called Karbu Ri. It was a great group with a real mix of mountain experience, but they got on famously. This is extremely important when you are on these types of expeditions. You might never know when you need gentle words of encouragement and support, or a really good laugh! 

After many days trekking through the valleys and up into the mountains some people began to struggle with illness. Snuffles experienced at home can be exacerbated with altitude and unfortunately some of the group’s conditions worsened to the point that they had to retreat to Kathmandu to recuperate. 

There was a slight moment of panic when a helicopter was spotted flying through the valley and landing nearby. The initial thought was that it was a rescue helicopter, a sombre moment for the team. However, communications through the radio suggested that this was not the case, it was collecting a team who had been climbing on the mountain range nearby. In fact, they had been collected from the team’s Base Camp!

Rumours started spreading like wildfire. They must have climbed Karbu Ri! Had the team been pipped to the post! Following communications proved that this wasn’t the case and they had just used the base camp as a pick-up point having climbed another mountain nearby! There was a shared sigh of relief amongst the team before they continued the approach to the aforementioned base camp. 

For the next few days they trekked over rocky moraine until they reached Base Camp, surrounded by mountains that stood like giants. Here they received their first sighting of Karbu Ri. The snowy peak itself stood around the 6000m but they would not know the accurate measurement until they recorded the altitude at the summit. 

By torch light they set off from base camp in the early hours of the morning. It was a long ascent over some tricky snow conditions, but they put 100% into it and were awarded when they reached the last section snow slope to the summit. 

One by one they arrived at the summit and were met by the most spectacular views across the Himalaya. They could see Everest, Cho Oyo, and Shishapangma to name a few. The team were soon stood together on the summit of Karbu Ri as they checked the altimeter showing a height at 6,010m! 

Although of the 13 only 10 were able to summit, it did not take away from what an absolute team effort the whole expedition was. Many of the participants where raising money for some fantastic charities showing that it’s not just about getting to the summit.

2017: Korlang Pari Tippa South (5,738m)

This year’s Unclimbed Peak Expedition was a mountain in the Rolwaling Himal called Korlang Pari Tippa South (5,738m). This mountain, sat on the border of Tibet, was a bit different to the snowy peaks of previous expeditions, as it had more of a rocky profile. This was always going to be a slightly more technical climb in terms of the rock, but the team were going to give it a go nonetheless.

From the outset the trekking was tough as they left the beaten track and on to a non-existent path. Machetes were used to cut through the overgrown vegetation on this path that was once used to get to the Tibetan villages found on the other side of the valley. It was clear from the start that no one had used this path for years. 

Trekking up a very steep gorge was challenging for the team but when they got higher into the mountains the views were phenomenal. Making their way to the high plateau, the effects of the altitude were stating to take effect. The trekking literally took their breath away but they continued on slowly, allowing time for the body to adapt to the thin air. 

Once at base camp they had a couple of days to rest, prepare kit and take in the spectacular surroundings in the wilderness. Once Advanced Base Camp was in situ they had a good view of the mountain they were to attempt to climb. It was incredible rocky with tall rock towers and long scree slopes. They knew this was going to be a difficult climb.

In the morning they woke to their advanced base camp to the surprise of it being surrounded by snow! Not unusual for the location or time of year but the first snow they had seen on the mountain since they arrived. 

Summit day soon arrived, and they set out to attempt Korlang Pari Tippa South. The team, with its wonderful Sherpas, climbed the scree covered slopes before heading onto hard rock. This was a long and technical climb but the team encouraged each other and worked together. After lots of focus and determination they finally reached the summit! 

After a safe descent and much deserved rest the team began the long walk out, accompanied by the view of the mountain they had summited days earlier.

2018: Unclimbed Peak Expedition

We currently have a team out in Nepal who will be attempting to reach the summit of their unclimbed mountain on Sunday 25th November. We will be following their progress and hope to hear the once they have safely descended back to base camp.

As is the nature with these types of expedition, you never know what will happen. Weather, tricky condition and illness can prevent a successful summit. For now, we wish them the best of luck and safe ascent.

One thing these expeditions have taught us over the years is that although it’s an incredible achievement to climb a previously unclimbed mountain, it’s more about the people and the journey.

Machu Picchu Trek 2019

We are very excited to announce that we will be running a Machu Picchu Trek in 2019!

Translated from Quechuan, the original language of the Incas, 'Machu Picchu' means 'Old Mountain, and old it is! This ancient city was built around the mid 1400s by Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui, the 9th Inca Ruler. With its spectacular location and remarkable architecture it's easy to see why it is considered one of the wonders of the world.

Following the Spanish invasion during the 16th Century the settlement became a closely guarded secret for hundreds of years. In 1911 an American Archaeologist called Hiram Bingham, in search of the 'Lost Cities of the Incas' rediscovered the ancient site that we know as Machu Picchu today. After this word soon spread and the site has attracted thousands upon thousands of people ever since.

In July 2019 we will be heading to Peru to lead the trek to Macchu Picchu. Though we will be doing it a bit different from the norm! Rather than the busy, classic Inca Trail we will be taking the Lares Valley Trail (the original Inca Trail) which is much quieter. The landscape here is stunning as you pass beautiful lakes, waterfalls and trek over big passes with views of snow-capped peaks.

We will meet up with the Inca Trail as we head passed the Vilcanota River, up through the Cloud Forest and on to Machu Picchu through the Sun gate. Here you will have a whole afternoon to marvel at the views and explore this one of the 7 Wonders of the World. We will also return early the next morning to watch the sunrise over this amazing place. You will have a guided tour of the magnificent archaeological site to see the extraordinary Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows, Intihuatana the solar clock and more.

Prior to trekking we will arrive in Cusco where we will acclimatise and see the local sites. There will also be a trip to the Qoricancha Sun Temple, which was the most important temple to the Incas, and time to explore the San Pedro market. The next day includes a full day excursion to the "Sacred Valley of the Incas", visiting the Sun Temple, colourful artisan markets and the town of Ollantaytambo to see ruins of what was once a massive Inca Fortress.

This really is an incredible trip that allows you to fully experience what the area has to offer and immerse yourself in history and culture whilst trekking through a stunning location. It's no wonder that it features on many people's Bucket List!

More information, including the full itinerary, what's included and cost can be found on the website. For ease, the full itinerary can also be viewed here.

Unclimbed Peak Expedition, Nepal - 2016

One of the many spectacular views experienced on the Expedition

In April 2016 Expedition Wise Director, Brian, and his climbing partner James set off to attempt to summit a mountain in the Himalayas that no one had previously climbed before. This would be Brian's 3rd Unclimbed Peak Expedition having successfully summited Nar Phu Peak (5930m) in 2014 and Chubbohe (5640m) in 2013. Though this year's summit was not to be due to dangerous climbing conditions it was still an incredible experience as they got to speak to the Nepalese and Sherpa community to see how they have been rebuilding their lives following last year's devastating earthquake.

Brian was able to update daily using his satellite tracker so we have compiled these daily updates into a diary of sorts to show their journey.

Unclimbed Peak Expedition - Omi Tso Go

14th April 2016: Happy New Year 2073! Brian and his climbing partner James arrived in Nepal late as the plane had to hold over Kathmandu, then ran out of fuel, so were diverted to India!

They finally got into Kathmandu 5hrs late and arrived at New Year's Evening - 2073. They have met with the Nepali Mountain Guides who have been to 7,000m + before so are well experienced!

They are off to Ministry of Tourism now to sort out the climbing permits

15th April: Brian and James are currently at 1,440m having arrived at Chot Chot after a very bumpy car journey! They have set up camp by the river and are getting their kit ready for tomorrow where they will commence the first day of trekking!

Brian will have the tracker on so will be sending updates along the route and we will hopefully be able to see how they are getting along. All is well and we wish them a great first day of trekking tomorrow.

17th April: Just got in to Dovan (2,800m). All good apart from weather. Thunder, lightning and rain each afternoon and evening.

Passed landslides & building damage from earthquake today. Raining here so snowing higher up. Pray for better weather.

6 hrs walking - 800m height gain but lots of ups and downs. Hoping weather improves.

19th April 2016: 7 hrs walking.101m descent, 964m ascent. At Beding in rain, hail, thunder and lightning. Need weather to change for any chance of ascent!

Weather continues to be bad with snow and hail. Messages each day may need to be sent next morning as no satellite coverage due to clouds.

Off to Na today at 4180m. Clear this morning but lots of snow on slopes and big avalanche risk on peaks after overnight storm.

Spectacular half day walk in to Na with views of peaks. Cloud starting to form so will decide whether to camp or tea house this afternoon.

We are both looking forward to rest day tomorrow

20th April 2016: Enjoying our rest day. Last night was first evening without thunder, lightning and snow/rain. Today is beautiful.

Rolwaling valley very remote with few people; moved away after earthquake. Beding and Na are Sherpa villages so all men are away working.


21st April 2016: We have now trekked in to our valley and views are spectacular. Very isolated and remote. We can see our peak!

Both of us are doing well. Really felt the altitude gain today.

Today we ascended 527m and descended 34m. 4hrs walking.

22nd April 2016: Weather pattern continuing with thunder and large snow dump overnight. Very windy today and cold. Making way to Base Camp at base of glacier.

Tough day's walk to Base Camp over glacial moraine and up loose steep rock walls to find snow plateau at 5224m. Dug out tent platforms.

Route looks even harder in reality than on Google Earth. Snowing again & some minor powder avalanches on face. Both doing well; need rest day.

We need the wind to die down as 30-40 mph on route today and could see wind on ridge pushing off the snow. Need 5 clear days + no wind. Snowing heavily now.

23rd April 2016: At Base Camp on rest day. Snowing already at 10am with cloud and wind build up. This peak is not looking feasible for us.

We have made our decision that the weather is not improving, in fact it is deteriorating, so we will head down tomorrow to approach camp.

Sherpas went up today to plot route onto hanging glacier - no route found. Decision confirmed to descend before we get snowed in up here.

We have walked where no one has walked, seen views that no one has seen before - no regrets.

24th April 2016: Back down to approach camp. Weather now really good although overnight we had 6 inches of snow.

Took 4hrs to get down to approach camp, same as ascent, as very tricky descent on snow covered rocks.

Up Rolwaling glacier tomorrow to check out feasibility of Langdung peak before returning to Na.

25th April 2016: Back at Na - weather now perfect for climbing Omi Tso Go but not possible - dangerous crevasses on hanging glacier on route to col. Oh well!

26th April 2016: In Kelje at 2850m after double day walking out for 7hrs. Weather still great and views amazing.

27th April 2016: Returned to Chot Chot walking 40mins down the road passing the hydro power before being picked up for the drive back to Kathmandu.

Though the summit was not reached this time it does not take away the incredible experience they had trekking through the amazing landscape of the Himalayas. Just look at those epic, snow-capped peaks! Brian would like to say a huge thank you for all your kind words/messages of support throughout the expedition and the generous donations to ShelterBox UK via his Just Giving page. You have helped to make such a huge difference!

Make History - Join us on our 2016 Unclimbed Peak Expedition and climb a mountain no one has before!

Have you ticked Kilimanjaro, Everest Base Camp or Machu Picchu off your adventure list and are now ready for the next challenge? Maybe you are looking to trek above 6000m or want to make your mark in the history books by climbing a mountain that no one has climbed before! If so, Expedition Wise has the perfect expedition for you!

 

 

Due to the popularity of the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2015 which is fully booked, we are now promoting our Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016!
     

In November 2016 we will be leading an expedition to climb Raungsiyar (6,224m), a previously unclimbed peak in the remote region of Rolwaling which lies in a truly "off the beaten track" area of Nepal. This is one of the 7 hidden valleys of the Himalaya, on the border with Tibet and said to be home of the Yeti!

 

 

This will be an amazing adventure and should appeal to any trekker or mountaineer wishing to complete a first ascent in a spectacular location, fully supported by climbing Sherpas and full camp crew.

Our 2016 Unclimbed Peak Expedition is perfect for those who have some experience in high altitude trekking, enjoy expedition life and are looking for the next challenge.

 

To give you a taste of what is involved in our Unclimbed Peak Expeditions take a look at our films about the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2013  & Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2014  

 

 

So what are you waiting for?

 

Whether you take part to raise money for your chosen charity, or just fancy an epic adventure, we think you have found your next big challenge!

 

If you would like to find out more about the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016 or would like to discuss whether it is right for you, please feel free to contact us as we would be more than happy to answer any questions.

 

Please note: Spaces are limited so please book your place as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

 

For more information and to book your place on this amazing trip click here.             

Summit Day - The First Ascent of Nar Phu Peak

" Morning Sir - black tea?" I am woken at 1am in my tent at Base Camp at 5200m by Nima, our camp sherpa.

I have slept in all of the clothes I will be wearing for the summit attempt so I only need to pull out my inner boots from my sleeping bag, where they have been overnight to keep them from freezing, before pulling them on and then fitting my outer boots.  This is a task that takes a lot of effort and has me out of breath and needing to rest for a few minutes before then leaving my tent for a porridge breakfast with the rest of the summit team: Rhiannon, Heather, Dawn, Catherine, James, our 2 climbing Sherpas, Pasang and Dorje and finally Shika Pandey, a trainee guide.

We start by heading downwards through a deep snow furrow that our climbing sherpas waded through yesterday for us.  It is not ideal to be heading downwards for 150m but our peak sits on the other side of a rock valley from our base camp.

It is minus 24℃ as we trudge down and then back up the same height to reach the face of the glacier.  It is here that we don harnesses, crampons, helmets, ice axes and rope up together. The initial climb is a simple 8m of 45° ice to get us onto the glacier where we plod upwards for 1.5hrs to reach the huge 100m high hanging glacier that blocks our path onto the upper glacier we need to reach to gain access to Nar Phu Peak.  

We have spent a lot of time using binoculars from base camp looking for a feasible route through the hanging glacier and have opted for an ice ramp at the glacier's right hand edge that leads right and then switches left.  The ramp starts out at an easy 45° but soon steepens to 65° hard ice.  We climb together in 3 rope groups and make it to the top shattered and in need of a drink and a snack bar.  Most of our water is frozen so we chip away at the ice to get some fluids into our bodies.

The wind has really picked up now and a few of our group are suffering from the early onset of frostbite.  We take off their boots and massage their feet before placing them into our armpits to rewarm them.

We now have an important choice, to continue along the glacier to the col, another kilometer of ice with crevasses to cross and then climb the West Ridge with a few false summits OR attempt to climb directly on the West Face where we are.  Until this moment, it has been hard to see which route is best due to the hanging glacier blocking our view of the complete route.

We choose the much steeper but objectively safer West Face.

We are now in a fight against the elements as the wind speed really picks up and freezes any skin that is not covered.

The West Face is very steep with snow pitches of 50°-75° which we climb in our rope teams with the use of some fixed rope and running belays to avoid any waiting around in the increasingly cold and harsh conditions.

We reach a tantalising 150m below the summit to find a large crevass to cross and a very steep 80° ice and snow wall blocking our route.  The time is racing away and we are aware that we will be descending the steep West Face in the dark. To come this far not to reach the top is heart breaking but we are not ready to give up yet so after a quick discussion, we agree to go for it and see if we can make it even though it will mean descending in the dark.  Dorje, one of our climbing sherpas, crosses the crevass on a snow bridge and leads up the ice placing a fixed line and an ice axe anchor at the top.  We follow him up scrambling on the ice and snow before reaching the top exhausted with our efforts at this altitude of 5900m.  There is now only a steady slope of 50° to reach the true summit.  We are going to make it and as a complete team of 9 out of 9.

 We reach the rock tower summit on the top of Nar Phu Peak at just after 2pm and check our GPS and get a reading of 5930m.  We have done it, we have climbed an unclimbed peak, we are the first sumitteers of this mountain.  To stand where no one has previously stood is exhilarating and emotional!  Lots of hugs and a few tears before putting up our prayer flags bought specifically from the Buddinath in Kathmandu and taking our summit photo and off we go conscious of the route to be reversed and the need for safety now on the descent.

It takes all of our energy reserves and more to make it back to camp in the dark, finishing after 16.5hrs at 7:30pm.

 
What an amazing day!

Meet the Nar Phu Team - Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2014

When people think of those who would attempt an unclimbed peak in Nepal they would probably imagine some hardcore, multi-skilled bionic humans that do nothing other than climb mountains, have survival skills that would make Bear Grylls' escapades seem tame, eat nothing but raw meat and energy bars, spend 99% of their lives in the mountains with the other 1% spent shopping for mountaineering kit and don epic adventure beards.

OK, a slight exaggeration there but you know what we mean!

So who are the team that are heading to Nepal in November to attempt to climb a previously unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, and do they fit the profile described above? 

Let’s say yes...... and no.

The thing is the team are just normal people with normal lives, jobs, families and none of them have beards (yet), but they all share a love of climbing mountains. They all have trekking experience, having taken part in a variety of expeditions around the globe and it is this that has brought them together to become the Nar Phu Team. A team with a shared goal – to climb a mountain that has never been climbed before.

So, let’s meet the Team & hear their thoughts on the upcoming adventure of a lifetime.

Catherine

I have lived in Hong Kong for almost 20 years. I was a lawyer for 22 years (14 years as a Partner) with global law firm Allen & Overy, but since May 2012 I have been working for various NGOs (fundraising and doing a broad spread of volunteer work).  My hobbies include travel, hiking, working out in the gym, reading, the arts and spending time with friends.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History: 

In March/April 2013 I completed “Catherine’s Africa Challenge” to raise funds for AfriKids, comprising of trekking in the Ethiopian Simien Highlands. I also climbed Kilimanjaro in 2007.

I like to go on adventure/wildlife/nature trips to out of the way places which have included Tibet, Nepal, Myanmar, Laos, India, Indonesia, Antarctica, South Georgia, The Falkland Islands, Greenland, Iceland, the Arctic, Guyana, Brazil, Peru, to name a few.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

I recently went to the Kashmir Himalayas to try to see snow leopards. I managed to see some leopards, which was an incredible experience as they are so difficult to find. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why?

I would like to explore more of Africa as it has fascinating human history, amazing landscapes, incredible wildlife and very welcoming and open people.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

There are less and less places which remain untouched by humans. It excites me that the team will place footprints somewhere for the first time.  

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

A sense of humour.

Heather

I live in Suffolk, work as a vet and have 2 grown up daughters, 2 dogs and 2 cats.  I enjoy walking and being outside, theatre and food. I am quite competitive especially with myself and enjoy challenging myself.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

Kilimanjaro 2007
Avenue of Volcanoes and Cotopaxi
Elbrus
Stok Kangri

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Summit of Kilimanjaro - my first mountain, truly a live changing experience. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Norway Pulpit Rock & Finland - Anywhere to see the Northern Lights!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Summit of Kilimanjaro and the amazing camarderie of a team of Charity Challengers.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The unique experience to the unknown.

James 

I live in Yorkshire with my family and work for myself.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History 

Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and Aconcagua.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Dimaniat Islands in the Indian Ocean…because there is no phone reception there.

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

To the black section of my bank account!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Waking up with a bucket on my head at the bottom of a ski lift on Elbrus, beware the local vodka...

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

Struggling in knee deep snow until I feel like weeping, then reminding myself that this is a holiday.

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Shanks pony

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

Whether Barnsley FC will be promoted next season.

Rhiannon

I live in Chester where I work as a freelance Marketeer. I am a creative soul with a thirst for adventure, and love nothing more than spending my free time on the hills or in the wilds.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History

I have done many UK based challenges such as the Welsh 3000s, 3peaks and national trails, spending most of my time exploring the national parks of the UK. In 2011 I climbed Kilimanjaro, which was my first proper taste of an overseas expedition. Since then I have continued to explore the UK and beyond, completing the Tour du Mont Blanc and climbing Mt. Toubkal in Morocco. I have also travelled to Malawi and Zambia, which was an amazing experience.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

I can 100% say my favourite place I have ever been to are the islands of the west coast of Scotland. Be it the Outer Hebrides, the small isles such as Rum and Eigg or the Isles of Mull and Skye there is just so much to do there and the landscape and wildlife are incredible. We are incredibly lucky to have such amazing places in the UK.

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Top of my (extensive) list is Patagonia. For years it has intrigued as it seems such a wild & beautiful place. Plus it boasts some pretty gnarly peaks!

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

I am fascinated with exploration and by those explorers who have visited lands unknown over the centuries. To stand somewhere where people have not stood before is a very unique experience in an increasingly explored world.

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

The night sky on Kilimanjaro. Standing there under a vast amount of stars & the Milky Way was truly incredible.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The challenge of the unknown. To take it as it comes.

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

The experience of being in the Himalaya, the landscape, the culture & the people we will meet along the way. Oh, and the epic views!

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Music & morale food – 9bars and Mini Cheddar Branston Pickle flavour.

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

The weather. If the conditions are against us it could seriously affect our attempt on the ascent.

Dawn

I'm the senior PA for a nuclear power station.  Fascinating stuff!  Hobbies include anything outdoors but mainly running and cycling with the odd bit of swimming.  Love hiking and being up high.  I live in Darlington and regularly walk in the Cleveland Hills.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

I've mountain biked across Peru, Vietnam and Cambodia and hiked the Simien mountains in Ethiopia.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Bermuda  - it's a little piece of heaven.

  

What destination would you like to visit most & why?

 Australia - just feel it's one of those places I should go but the long flight puts me off! 

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

I guess it's something different, something no-one else may have done and I'm desperate to go above 6000 metres, slowly does it!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

It has to be Ethiopia.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

 It's quirky!  Oh, and de-ranged! 

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

 Nothing - there's no room once I get several pairs of stilettos in my suitcase :) 

Brian

I live in North Wales and work for Expedition Wise Ltd. My Interests are visiting new places and walking up mountains!

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

Kili, Elbrus, Chhubohe, Kaloche, lots of peaks in South America, all the 4000m peaks in the alps.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Apart from the unclimbed peak last year, Ecuador is my favourite country.  It is  a small country where you can be on Cotopaxi (highest active volcano in the world – 5897m) in the morning and in the jungle in the afternoon. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Alaska – pristine wilderness of the area. 

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

The excitement about trekking in an area not often visited and then attempting a mountain that no one has ever stood on in the history of humanity blows my mind. 

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Last year – climbing Chhubohe in Nepal.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The fact that I will be walking in an area not often visited and I am not following lots of other people – the thoughts that you may be the first to walk on the summit ridge and the summit itself.

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

Trekking in to the Lost Valleys of Nar Phu.

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Kindle Paper white – my books are important in all the downtime and acclimatisation days. 

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

Finding a route up the peak and the snow conditions.  

I am sure you will agree they all seem pretty normal!

Though we are sure they are all excited and nervous ahead of this epic challenge, we wish them all the luck and safe travels.

You can follow their journey throughout November by liking the Expedition Wise Facebook page where there will be daily updates from the Unclimbed Peak Expedition, as well as on our Twitter account @ExpeditionWise.

If you would like to climb a previously unclimbed peak in Nepal, either for charity or just for your own personal experience, check out our 2015 Unclimbed Peak Expedition!


All the best Team Nar Phu!