Unclimbed Peak Expedition, Nepal - 2016

One of the many spectacular views experienced on the Expedition

In April 2016 Expedition Wise Director, Brian, and his climbing partner James set off to attempt to summit a mountain in the Himalayas that no one had previously climbed before. This would be Brian's 3rd Unclimbed Peak Expedition having successfully summited Nar Phu Peak (5930m) in 2014 and Chubbohe (5640m) in 2013. Though this year's summit was not to be due to dangerous climbing conditions it was still an incredible experience as they got to speak to the Nepalese and Sherpa community to see how they have been rebuilding their lives following last year's devastating earthquake.

Brian was able to update daily using his satellite tracker so we have compiled these daily updates into a diary of sorts to show their journey.

Unclimbed Peak Expedition - Omi Tso Go

14th April 2016: Happy New Year 2073! Brian and his climbing partner James arrived in Nepal late as the plane had to hold over Kathmandu, then ran out of fuel, so were diverted to India!

They finally got into Kathmandu 5hrs late and arrived at New Year's Evening - 2073. They have met with the Nepali Mountain Guides who have been to 7,000m + before so are well experienced!

They are off to Ministry of Tourism now to sort out the climbing permits

15th April: Brian and James are currently at 1,440m having arrived at Chot Chot after a very bumpy car journey! They have set up camp by the river and are getting their kit ready for tomorrow where they will commence the first day of trekking!

Brian will have the tracker on so will be sending updates along the route and we will hopefully be able to see how they are getting along. All is well and we wish them a great first day of trekking tomorrow.

17th April: Just got in to Dovan (2,800m). All good apart from weather. Thunder, lightning and rain each afternoon and evening.

Passed landslides & building damage from earthquake today. Raining here so snowing higher up. Pray for better weather.

6 hrs walking - 800m height gain but lots of ups and downs. Hoping weather improves.

19th April 2016: 7 hrs walking.101m descent, 964m ascent. At Beding in rain, hail, thunder and lightning. Need weather to change for any chance of ascent!

Weather continues to be bad with snow and hail. Messages each day may need to be sent next morning as no satellite coverage due to clouds.

Off to Na today at 4180m. Clear this morning but lots of snow on slopes and big avalanche risk on peaks after overnight storm.

Spectacular half day walk in to Na with views of peaks. Cloud starting to form so will decide whether to camp or tea house this afternoon.

We are both looking forward to rest day tomorrow

20th April 2016: Enjoying our rest day. Last night was first evening without thunder, lightning and snow/rain. Today is beautiful.

Rolwaling valley very remote with few people; moved away after earthquake. Beding and Na are Sherpa villages so all men are away working.


21st April 2016: We have now trekked in to our valley and views are spectacular. Very isolated and remote. We can see our peak!

Both of us are doing well. Really felt the altitude gain today.

Today we ascended 527m and descended 34m. 4hrs walking.

22nd April 2016: Weather pattern continuing with thunder and large snow dump overnight. Very windy today and cold. Making way to Base Camp at base of glacier.

Tough day's walk to Base Camp over glacial moraine and up loose steep rock walls to find snow plateau at 5224m. Dug out tent platforms.

Route looks even harder in reality than on Google Earth. Snowing again & some minor powder avalanches on face. Both doing well; need rest day.

We need the wind to die down as 30-40 mph on route today and could see wind on ridge pushing off the snow. Need 5 clear days + no wind. Snowing heavily now.

23rd April 2016: At Base Camp on rest day. Snowing already at 10am with cloud and wind build up. This peak is not looking feasible for us.

We have made our decision that the weather is not improving, in fact it is deteriorating, so we will head down tomorrow to approach camp.

Sherpas went up today to plot route onto hanging glacier - no route found. Decision confirmed to descend before we get snowed in up here.

We have walked where no one has walked, seen views that no one has seen before - no regrets.

24th April 2016: Back down to approach camp. Weather now really good although overnight we had 6 inches of snow.

Took 4hrs to get down to approach camp, same as ascent, as very tricky descent on snow covered rocks.

Up Rolwaling glacier tomorrow to check out feasibility of Langdung peak before returning to Na.

25th April 2016: Back at Na - weather now perfect for climbing Omi Tso Go but not possible - dangerous crevasses on hanging glacier on route to col. Oh well!

26th April 2016: In Kelje at 2850m after double day walking out for 7hrs. Weather still great and views amazing.

27th April 2016: Returned to Chot Chot walking 40mins down the road passing the hydro power before being picked up for the drive back to Kathmandu.

Though the summit was not reached this time it does not take away the incredible experience they had trekking through the amazing landscape of the Himalayas. Just look at those epic, snow-capped peaks! Brian would like to say a huge thank you for all your kind words/messages of support throughout the expedition and the generous donations to ShelterBox UK via his Just Giving page. You have helped to make such a huge difference!

Are you looking for a once in a lifetime experience or a challenge that will take you overseas to amazing places? We have some incredible overseas treks in 2016 that you can choose to do to raise money for your chosen charity or simply for the chance to tick some items off your Bucket List!

Take a look at Expedition Wise's 2016 Overseas Treks & Expeditions:

Kilimanjaro Trek - Sept 17th - 27th 2016 - Mt Kilimanjaro is a truly incredible mountain and is perfect for someone who is looking for a challenging trek overseas. The altitude can make the trek very tough going but we use the Rongai route which allows a better chance of acclimatising.

Find out more about our Kilimanjaro Trek here. 

October 6th - 10th 2016 - Spend 3 days trekking over the stunning sand dunes of the Sahara and the nights sleeping under millions of stars in a traditional Berber Bedouin camp.

Find out more about our Sahara Trek here.

November 5th - 20th 2016 - Imagine standing on the summit of a mountain in the Himalayas that has never been climbed before! Have the chance to go down in the mountaineering history books with a first ascent of a mountain in Nepal. An incredible, once in a lifetime experience!

Find out what's involved here.

Be Inspired! Watch the short film of our 2015 Unclimbed Peak Expedition.

Whatever you do, make 2016 a year of achieving the incredible!

Make History - Join us on our 2016 Unclimbed Peak Expedition and climb a mountain no one has before!

Have you ticked Kilimanjaro, Everest Base Camp or Machu Picchu off your adventure list and are now ready for the next challenge? Maybe you are looking to trek above 6000m or want to make your mark in the history books by climbing a mountain that no one has climbed before! If so, Expedition Wise has the perfect expedition for you!

 

 

Due to the popularity of the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2015 which is fully booked, we are now promoting our Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016!
     

In November 2016 we will be leading an expedition to climb Raungsiyar (6,224m), a previously unclimbed peak in the remote region of Rolwaling which lies in a truly "off the beaten track" area of Nepal. This is one of the 7 hidden valleys of the Himalaya, on the border with Tibet and said to be home of the Yeti!

 

 

This will be an amazing adventure and should appeal to any trekker or mountaineer wishing to complete a first ascent in a spectacular location, fully supported by climbing Sherpas and full camp crew.

Our 2016 Unclimbed Peak Expedition is perfect for those who have some experience in high altitude trekking, enjoy expedition life and are looking for the next challenge.

 

To give you a taste of what is involved in our Unclimbed Peak Expeditions take a look at our films about the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2013  & Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2014  

 

 

So what are you waiting for?

 

Whether you take part to raise money for your chosen charity, or just fancy an epic adventure, we think you have found your next big challenge!

 

If you would like to find out more about the Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2016 or would like to discuss whether it is right for you, please feel free to contact us as we would be more than happy to answer any questions.

 

Please note: Spaces are limited so please book your place as soon as possible to avoid disappointment.

 

For more information and to book your place on this amazing trip click here.             

Adventure Film Premiere - The Unclimbed Peak Expedition, Nepal

Join us for a FREE evening of adventure at the film premiere of 'The Unclimbed Peak Expedition Nepal'

Following the successful first ascent of Nar Phu Peak (5,930m) in the Chulu range of the Lost Valleys of Nepal, Expedition Wise would like to invite you to see the film premiere and meet the team of trekkers.

As well as the film premiere of the climb, there will be the following:

• Free Tea and coffee
• A chance to view all the equipment taken on the first ascent
• Short Q&A session
• Outdoor clothing and equipment, both new and second hand for sale (Nepalese wool hats, fleeces, 90litre expedition bags, down jackets, wicking base layers etc)

All proceeds go to Nightingale House Hospice.

For more information contact Brian Jackson at Expedition Wise Ltd:

 01978 750636

www.expeditionwise.com

Summit Day - The First Ascent of Nar Phu Peak

" Morning Sir - black tea?" I am woken at 1am in my tent at Base Camp at 5200m by Nima, our camp sherpa.

I have slept in all of the clothes I will be wearing for the summit attempt so I only need to pull out my inner boots from my sleeping bag, where they have been overnight to keep them from freezing, before pulling them on and then fitting my outer boots.  This is a task that takes a lot of effort and has me out of breath and needing to rest for a few minutes before then leaving my tent for a porridge breakfast with the rest of the summit team: Rhiannon, Heather, Dawn, Catherine, James, our 2 climbing Sherpas, Pasang and Dorje and finally Shika Pandey, a trainee guide.

We start by heading downwards through a deep snow furrow that our climbing sherpas waded through yesterday for us.  It is not ideal to be heading downwards for 150m but our peak sits on the other side of a rock valley from our base camp.

It is minus 24℃ as we trudge down and then back up the same height to reach the face of the glacier.  It is here that we don harnesses, crampons, helmets, ice axes and rope up together. The initial climb is a simple 8m of 45° ice to get us onto the glacier where we plod upwards for 1.5hrs to reach the huge 100m high hanging glacier that blocks our path onto the upper glacier we need to reach to gain access to Nar Phu Peak.  

We have spent a lot of time using binoculars from base camp looking for a feasible route through the hanging glacier and have opted for an ice ramp at the glacier's right hand edge that leads right and then switches left.  The ramp starts out at an easy 45° but soon steepens to 65° hard ice.  We climb together in 3 rope groups and make it to the top shattered and in need of a drink and a snack bar.  Most of our water is frozen so we chip away at the ice to get some fluids into our bodies.

The wind has really picked up now and a few of our group are suffering from the early onset of frostbite.  We take off their boots and massage their feet before placing them into our armpits to rewarm them.

We now have an important choice, to continue along the glacier to the col, another kilometer of ice with crevasses to cross and then climb the West Ridge with a few false summits OR attempt to climb directly on the West Face where we are.  Until this moment, it has been hard to see which route is best due to the hanging glacier blocking our view of the complete route.

We choose the much steeper but objectively safer West Face.

We are now in a fight against the elements as the wind speed really picks up and freezes any skin that is not covered.

The West Face is very steep with snow pitches of 50°-75° which we climb in our rope teams with the use of some fixed rope and running belays to avoid any waiting around in the increasingly cold and harsh conditions.

We reach a tantalising 150m below the summit to find a large crevass to cross and a very steep 80° ice and snow wall blocking our route.  The time is racing away and we are aware that we will be descending the steep West Face in the dark. To come this far not to reach the top is heart breaking but we are not ready to give up yet so after a quick discussion, we agree to go for it and see if we can make it even though it will mean descending in the dark.  Dorje, one of our climbing sherpas, crosses the crevass on a snow bridge and leads up the ice placing a fixed line and an ice axe anchor at the top.  We follow him up scrambling on the ice and snow before reaching the top exhausted with our efforts at this altitude of 5900m.  There is now only a steady slope of 50° to reach the true summit.  We are going to make it and as a complete team of 9 out of 9.

 We reach the rock tower summit on the top of Nar Phu Peak at just after 2pm and check our GPS and get a reading of 5930m.  We have done it, we have climbed an unclimbed peak, we are the first sumitteers of this mountain.  To stand where no one has previously stood is exhilarating and emotional!  Lots of hugs and a few tears before putting up our prayer flags bought specifically from the Buddinath in Kathmandu and taking our summit photo and off we go conscious of the route to be reversed and the need for safety now on the descent.

It takes all of our energy reserves and more to make it back to camp in the dark, finishing after 16.5hrs at 7:30pm.

 
What an amazing day!

Meet the Nar Phu Team - Unclimbed Peak Expedition 2014

When people think of those who would attempt an unclimbed peak in Nepal they would probably imagine some hardcore, multi-skilled bionic humans that do nothing other than climb mountains, have survival skills that would make Bear Grylls' escapades seem tame, eat nothing but raw meat and energy bars, spend 99% of their lives in the mountains with the other 1% spent shopping for mountaineering kit and don epic adventure beards.

OK, a slight exaggeration there but you know what we mean!

So who are the team that are heading to Nepal in November to attempt to climb a previously unclimbed peak in the Himalaya, and do they fit the profile described above? 

Let’s say yes...... and no.

The thing is the team are just normal people with normal lives, jobs, families and none of them have beards (yet), but they all share a love of climbing mountains. They all have trekking experience, having taken part in a variety of expeditions around the globe and it is this that has brought them together to become the Nar Phu Team. A team with a shared goal – to climb a mountain that has never been climbed before.

So, let’s meet the Team & hear their thoughts on the upcoming adventure of a lifetime.

Catherine

I have lived in Hong Kong for almost 20 years. I was a lawyer for 22 years (14 years as a Partner) with global law firm Allen & Overy, but since May 2012 I have been working for various NGOs (fundraising and doing a broad spread of volunteer work).  My hobbies include travel, hiking, working out in the gym, reading, the arts and spending time with friends.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History: 

In March/April 2013 I completed “Catherine’s Africa Challenge” to raise funds for AfriKids, comprising of trekking in the Ethiopian Simien Highlands. I also climbed Kilimanjaro in 2007.

I like to go on adventure/wildlife/nature trips to out of the way places which have included Tibet, Nepal, Myanmar, Laos, India, Indonesia, Antarctica, South Georgia, The Falkland Islands, Greenland, Iceland, the Arctic, Guyana, Brazil, Peru, to name a few.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

I recently went to the Kashmir Himalayas to try to see snow leopards. I managed to see some leopards, which was an incredible experience as they are so difficult to find. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why?

I would like to explore more of Africa as it has fascinating human history, amazing landscapes, incredible wildlife and very welcoming and open people.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

There are less and less places which remain untouched by humans. It excites me that the team will place footprints somewhere for the first time.  

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

A sense of humour.

Heather

I live in Suffolk, work as a vet and have 2 grown up daughters, 2 dogs and 2 cats.  I enjoy walking and being outside, theatre and food. I am quite competitive especially with myself and enjoy challenging myself.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

Kilimanjaro 2007
Avenue of Volcanoes and Cotopaxi
Elbrus
Stok Kangri

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Summit of Kilimanjaro - my first mountain, truly a live changing experience. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Norway Pulpit Rock & Finland - Anywhere to see the Northern Lights!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Summit of Kilimanjaro and the amazing camarderie of a team of Charity Challengers.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The unique experience to the unknown.

James 

I live in Yorkshire with my family and work for myself.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History 

Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and Aconcagua.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Dimaniat Islands in the Indian Ocean…because there is no phone reception there.

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

To the black section of my bank account!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Waking up with a bucket on my head at the bottom of a ski lift on Elbrus, beware the local vodka...

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

Struggling in knee deep snow until I feel like weeping, then reminding myself that this is a holiday.

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Shanks pony

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

Whether Barnsley FC will be promoted next season.

Rhiannon

I live in Chester where I work as a freelance Marketeer. I am a creative soul with a thirst for adventure, and love nothing more than spending my free time on the hills or in the wilds.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History

I have done many UK based challenges such as the Welsh 3000s, 3peaks and national trails, spending most of my time exploring the national parks of the UK. In 2011 I climbed Kilimanjaro, which was my first proper taste of an overseas expedition. Since then I have continued to explore the UK and beyond, completing the Tour du Mont Blanc and climbing Mt. Toubkal in Morocco. I have also travelled to Malawi and Zambia, which was an amazing experience.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

I can 100% say my favourite place I have ever been to are the islands of the west coast of Scotland. Be it the Outer Hebrides, the small isles such as Rum and Eigg or the Isles of Mull and Skye there is just so much to do there and the landscape and wildlife are incredible. We are incredibly lucky to have such amazing places in the UK.

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Top of my (extensive) list is Patagonia. For years it has intrigued as it seems such a wild & beautiful place. Plus it boasts some pretty gnarly peaks!

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

I am fascinated with exploration and by those explorers who have visited lands unknown over the centuries. To stand somewhere where people have not stood before is a very unique experience in an increasingly explored world.

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

The night sky on Kilimanjaro. Standing there under a vast amount of stars & the Milky Way was truly incredible.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The challenge of the unknown. To take it as it comes.

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

The experience of being in the Himalaya, the landscape, the culture & the people we will meet along the way. Oh, and the epic views!

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Music & morale food – 9bars and Mini Cheddar Branston Pickle flavour.

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

The weather. If the conditions are against us it could seriously affect our attempt on the ascent.

Dawn

I'm the senior PA for a nuclear power station.  Fascinating stuff!  Hobbies include anything outdoors but mainly running and cycling with the odd bit of swimming.  Love hiking and being up high.  I live in Darlington and regularly walk in the Cleveland Hills.

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

I've mountain biked across Peru, Vietnam and Cambodia and hiked the Simien mountains in Ethiopia.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Bermuda  - it's a little piece of heaven.

  

What destination would you like to visit most & why?

 Australia - just feel it's one of those places I should go but the long flight puts me off! 

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

I guess it's something different, something no-one else may have done and I'm desperate to go above 6000 metres, slowly does it!

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

It has to be Ethiopia.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

 It's quirky!  Oh, and de-ranged! 

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

 Nothing - there's no room once I get several pairs of stilettos in my suitcase :) 

Brian

I live in North Wales and work for Expedition Wise Ltd. My Interests are visiting new places and walking up mountains!

Expedition/Charity Challenge History:

Kili, Elbrus, Chhubohe, Kaloche, lots of peaks in South America, all the 4000m peaks in the alps.

Favourite place in the world that you have been to & why?

Apart from the unclimbed peak last year, Ecuador is my favourite country.  It is  a small country where you can be on Cotopaxi (highest active volcano in the world – 5897m) in the morning and in the jungle in the afternoon. 

What destination would you like to visit most & why? 

Alaska – pristine wilderness of the area. 

Why did you choose to do an unclimbed peak expedition?

The excitement about trekking in an area not often visited and then attempting a mountain that no one has ever stood on in the history of humanity blows my mind. 

Favourite expedition/charity challenge memory:

Last year – climbing Chhubohe in Nepal.

What attracts you most about climbing an unclimbed peak?

The fact that I will be walking in an area not often visited and I am not following lots of other people – the thoughts that you may be the first to walk on the summit ridge and the summit itself.

What are you looking forward to most about the unclimbed peak expedition?

Trekking in to the Lost Valleys of Nar Phu.

What important item (not on the kit list) will you be taking with you?

Kindle Paper white – my books are important in all the downtime and acclimatisation days. 

What are you most concerned about with regards to the Unclimbed Peak Expedition?

Finding a route up the peak and the snow conditions.  

I am sure you will agree they all seem pretty normal!

Though we are sure they are all excited and nervous ahead of this epic challenge, we wish them all the luck and safe travels.

You can follow their journey throughout November by liking the Expedition Wise Facebook page where there will be daily updates from the Unclimbed Peak Expedition, as well as on our Twitter account @ExpeditionWise.

If you would like to climb a previously unclimbed peak in Nepal, either for charity or just for your own personal experience, check out our 2015 Unclimbed Peak Expedition!


All the best Team Nar Phu!