5 years of Unclimbed Peak Expeditions - The highs & lows of First Ascents

On Sunday 11th November Brian, Director of Expedition Wise Ltd, flew to Nepal with a team to attempt a previously unclimbed mountain in the Rolwaling Valley. This will be Expedition Wise’s 6th Unclimbed Peak attempt since we started running them 6 years ago. Quite an achievement!

It all began in 2013 and as a way of celebrating the past 5 years of Unclimbed Peak Expeditions we thought it would be a great time to reflect on each one of these expeditions and what was involved.

2013: Chhubohe (5,640m) & Kaloche

Since Brian (Director of Expedition Wise Ltd) was 8 years of age he had always dreamt about being the first person to climb a mountain. It was a dream that lay dormant for a long time as he never thought it would be possible. Surely it’s only famous Adventurers and Explorers that have the opportunities for these types of endeavours? Surely all the mountains have already been climbed, especially in the Himalaya?

As the years passed by, he was extremely fortunate to travel the world leading charity challenges and expeditions. In doing so he helped many people achieve their dreams of climbing Kilimanjaro or trekking in some of the most breath-taking places on the planet. But for Brian, that one dream of doing a first ascent still niggled away.

In 2012 he made the decision to take the first step in achieving his dream. By 2013, along with some friends he successfully reached the summit of both Chhubohe and Kaloche in Nepal, in doing so they became the first people to stand on their summits.

Dream achieved, he returned to the UK where another dream began to form. Through conversations with others it soon came apparent that, not only did others share his dream of climbing unclimbed mountains, but he could help others achieve it. The wheels set in motion as he began researching other unclimbed mountains, possible places and feasible routes. Fast forward to the current day and Brian was helped many people achieve the unclimbed mountain dream.

Here we take a look at each one of them:

2014: Nar Phu Peak (5,930m)

In 2014 Brian led a team of 6 to attempt to complete a first ascent of Nar Phu Peak in the Nar Phu Valley, Nepal. This was certainly a roller-coaster of an expedition as there were many times when their summit dream was not looking possible. 

The approach started on the Annapurna Circuit and over the coming days they were accompanied by the most incredible views of the Annapurna massif itself. After a few days trekking they were about to head off the circuit towards the Nar Phu Valley where they were to climb to the high pass before making their way to Base Camp. 

Their plan hit a stand point as they heard that this route was impassable due to 6ft snowdrifts. A couple of weeks prior to their expedition the area had been hit by a terrible snow storm, unusual for the time of year and unexpected. Suddenly the summit dream seemed to fade. However, after much time spent poring over the maps a new route to basecamp was found. 

They continued on the circuit before leaving the beaten track up to a newly created intermediate camp before a huge day of ascent up to Kang La Pass (5320m). From here the walk to base camp was incredibly hard due to deep snow but they got there and what a stunning place it was.  

After a day of rest, the Sherpas headed toward the mountain to see if they could spy a route past a huge hanging glacier. Watching them through binoculars, the team’s hearts dropped as they watched them stop in front of the glacier and begin to walk back. It looked like they were unable to find a route. It became apparent to the team that they wouldn’t even be able to get anywhere near the mountain, never mind the summit.

They waited for the Sherpas to return with the bad news but spirits soared as they were told a clear route has easily been spotted and should pose no problem. The first ascent of Nar Phu Peak was underway!

Summit day brought with it incredibly cold temperatures of -23 as they set out in the early hours to start their climb. It was an incredibly long day, with tough conditions. 

The wind began to pick up dropping the temperatures to -45 as they ascended, not to mention the affects of altitude. Still, the team continued with steep gradients, false summits and crevasses. It was only when they could just about see the top of the summit that once again the attempt was stopped in its tracks. A snow bridge with a huge drop either side was all that stood between them and the last 100 metres to the summit. 

Would it be passable? After much deliberation, reading of conditions, structure etc. it was decided that it looked safe enough to cross. Fortunately it was and within the hour the whole team had reached the summit of Nar Phu Peak (5930m)! They looked across the stunning mountain that covered the landscape of Nepal and in to Tibet. A safe ascent and an incredible helicopter flight back to Pokhara before flying back to Kathmandu was the cherry on the cake for this successful unclimbed peak expedition.

2015:Expedition Postponed

Brian was due to lead a team on another Unclimbed Peak Expedition in November of 2015 but sadly this was not to be. In April 25th  an earthquake that was measured at 8.1 on the Richter Scale struck Nepal, causing absolute devastation. The quake caused landslides and avalanches on the mountains, including Everest. 

Many people lost their lives and communities suffered loss and destruction to their homes and land. It was heart-breaking to hear. In September 2015 it was decided that the best thing to do would be to postpone the Unclimbed Peak Expedition and instead focus on ways to help the people of Nepal recover from the terrible event. Brian started fundraising for ShelterBox who deliver aid to those who need it in times of disaster and whom were pivotal in working with the Nepalese communities who had been hit the hardest.

2016: Omi Tso Go (6,332m)

Whilst researching unclimbed peaks for the past expeditions one name kept popping up. It was a mountain called ‘Omi Tso Go’ in the Rolwaling Himal. At 6,332m and previously unclimbed, it looked like the perfect challenge. In April Brian and his climbing partner returned to Nepal to attempt a first ascent. Arriving in Kathmandu they saw the destruction that was left by the earthquake but also saw the resilience of the Nepalese people as they rebuilt their lives. 

Walking through the mountain villages the destruction was even more apparent as they past evidence of landslide, ruins where homes once stood and people still living in tents. However, further evidence of their resilience shone through as they were greeted with warm hospitality and saw how they were rebuilding their communities bit by bit. 

Unfortunately, a successful summit was not meant to be on this occasion as weather and conditions prevented them from reaching the summit of Omi Tso Go. Although disappointed, the great news was that Brian had managed to raise a fantastic amount for ShelterBox to give back to the Nepalese community.

2016: Karbu Ri (6,010m)

Following the expedition in April, Brian headed back to Nepal the following November to lead a team of 13 on their Unclimbed Peak Expedition. The objective this time was a mountain called Karbu Ri. It was a great group with a real mix of mountain experience, but they got on famously. This is extremely important when you are on these types of expeditions. You might never know when you need gentle words of encouragement and support, or a really good laugh! 

After many days trekking through the valleys and up into the mountains some people began to struggle with illness. Snuffles experienced at home can be exacerbated with altitude and unfortunately some of the group’s conditions worsened to the point that they had to retreat to Kathmandu to recuperate. 

There was a slight moment of panic when a helicopter was spotted flying through the valley and landing nearby. The initial thought was that it was a rescue helicopter, a sombre moment for the team. However, communications through the radio suggested that this was not the case, it was collecting a team who had been climbing on the mountain range nearby. In fact, they had been collected from the team’s Base Camp!

Rumours started spreading like wildfire. They must have climbed Karbu Ri! Had the team been pipped to the post! Following communications proved that this wasn’t the case and they had just used the base camp as a pick-up point having climbed another mountain nearby! There was a shared sigh of relief amongst the team before they continued the approach to the aforementioned base camp. 

For the next few days they trekked over rocky moraine until they reached Base Camp, surrounded by mountains that stood like giants. Here they received their first sighting of Karbu Ri. The snowy peak itself stood around the 6000m but they would not know the accurate measurement until they recorded the altitude at the summit. 

By torch light they set off from base camp in the early hours of the morning. It was a long ascent over some tricky snow conditions, but they put 100% into it and were awarded when they reached the last section snow slope to the summit. 

One by one they arrived at the summit and were met by the most spectacular views across the Himalaya. They could see Everest, Cho Oyo, and Shishapangma to name a few. The team were soon stood together on the summit of Karbu Ri as they checked the altimeter showing a height at 6,010m! 

Although of the 13 only 10 were able to summit, it did not take away from what an absolute team effort the whole expedition was. Many of the participants where raising money for some fantastic charities showing that it’s not just about getting to the summit.

2017: Korlang Pari Tippa South (5,738m)

This year’s Unclimbed Peak Expedition was a mountain in the Rolwaling Himal called Korlang Pari Tippa South (5,738m). This mountain, sat on the border of Tibet, was a bit different to the snowy peaks of previous expeditions, as it had more of a rocky profile. This was always going to be a slightly more technical climb in terms of the rock, but the team were going to give it a go nonetheless.

From the outset the trekking was tough as they left the beaten track and on to a non-existent path. Machetes were used to cut through the overgrown vegetation on this path that was once used to get to the Tibetan villages found on the other side of the valley. It was clear from the start that no one had used this path for years. 

Trekking up a very steep gorge was challenging for the team but when they got higher into the mountains the views were phenomenal. Making their way to the high plateau, the effects of the altitude were stating to take effect. The trekking literally took their breath away but they continued on slowly, allowing time for the body to adapt to the thin air. 

Once at base camp they had a couple of days to rest, prepare kit and take in the spectacular surroundings in the wilderness. Once Advanced Base Camp was in situ they had a good view of the mountain they were to attempt to climb. It was incredible rocky with tall rock towers and long scree slopes. They knew this was going to be a difficult climb.

In the morning they woke to their advanced base camp to the surprise of it being surrounded by snow! Not unusual for the location or time of year but the first snow they had seen on the mountain since they arrived. 

Summit day soon arrived, and they set out to attempt Korlang Pari Tippa South. The team, with its wonderful Sherpas, climbed the scree covered slopes before heading onto hard rock. This was a long and technical climb but the team encouraged each other and worked together. After lots of focus and determination they finally reached the summit! 

After a safe descent and much deserved rest the team began the long walk out, accompanied by the view of the mountain they had summited days earlier.

2018: Unclimbed Peak Expedition

We currently have a team out in Nepal who will be attempting to reach the summit of their unclimbed mountain on Sunday 25th November. We will be following their progress and hope to hear the once they have safely descended back to base camp.

As is the nature with these types of expedition, you never know what will happen. Weather, tricky condition and illness can prevent a successful summit. For now, we wish them the best of luck and safe ascent.

One thing these expeditions have taught us over the years is that although it’s an incredible achievement to climb a previously unclimbed mountain, it’s more about the people and the journey.

A 'FANNtastic' Trek in an exciting, lesser known destination...

The Fann Mountains in north western Tajikistan are becoming a popular place for trekkers who are looking for something a bit different to the usual travel destinations. This mountainous, landlocked country in Central Asia shares borders with Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan and offers high peaks and stunning lakes as part of its breathtaking vistas.

Our ‘Tajikistan Fann Mountains and Lakes Trek’ in September 2019 involves trekking over high passes, past spectacular lakes and nights under canvas with the magnificent Fann Mountains as a backdrop.

Although it is increasing in popularity as a travel destination some people may not know much about Tajikistan, so we have compiled some interesting facts about this lesser known country and what is involved in our ‘FANNtastic’ trek.

We start our journey in Dushanbe, the capital and largest city of Tajikistan. Dushanbe means ‘Monday’ in Tajik (the official language of Tajikistan) which became the capital’s name as it grew from a small village that used to have a popular market on Mondays. Here you can visit museums, see the Palace of Nations, experience the culture and enjoy the tranquillity of Rudaki Park with its beautiful tree canopy, flower gardens, lakes and fountains. It is also home to the second highest flagpole in the world, standing at 163m, and the Rudaki Statue in honour of the nation’s most revered poet.

Tajikistan is certainly a mountainous country, with 93 percent of its surface area covered by mountains and more than half of the country is over 3000m above sea level. These mountains contain a number of glaciers, the largest being the Fedchenko Glacier in the Pamir Mountains which, covering over 700 square kilometres, is the largest glacier in the world outside the polar regions.

Our trek begins in the Fann Mountains, part of the western Pamir-Alay mountain system that is located in the northwest of the country. 

The area has become one of the largest tourist attractions in Tajikistan and it’s no surprise why. With lofty peaks, high passes and a number of alluring lakes, the views are breath-taking with many opportunities for trekking and climbing. The largest mountain in this range is Chimtarga peak standing at 5,489 m. The highest mountain in the country can be found further east in the Pamir Mountains. Standing at 7,494m (24,590ft) it was initially named Stalin Peak in 1933 (after Joseph Stalin) before being renamed in 1962 as Communism Peak. Today it is known as ‘Ismoil Somoni Peak’ to commemorate a former ruler of the Samanid dynasty.

The Fann Mountains features about 100 mountains many of which we will see as we trek over high passes before dropping back down to the valleys passing lakes of shimmering emerald green, turquoise and blue. With about 2% of the country’s area covered by lakes they feature widely in this area and throughout our trek we will experience some of the most beautiful ones, each with its own charm. After a long day travelling from Dushanbe we reach Pendjikent Margozur Lake where we will have time to relax by the lake and take in the views before sleeping under canvas in preparation to start the trek the next day.

Over the next 10 days the trek will involve a west to eastern traverse of the Fann Mountains, taking us over high passes such as Guitan Pass (2,650m), Govhona Pass (3,200m) and Alouddin Pass (3,860m). Each pass will provide magnificent views of the surrounding area including the high peaks. As we descend to the valleys below we will walk along rivers and to some of the most stunning lakes such as Kulikalon on the northern slope of Chimtarga peak, Alauddin with its clear and cool waters and Mutnoe Lake, surrounded by the highest peaks of the Fann mountains, including Chimtarga (5489m) and Energia (5120m). As we trek we will be keeping our eyes peeled for local flora and fauna such as mountains goats, marmot, eagles, wolves and foxes. If we are really lucky we may even spot the elusive snow leopard on the high peaks!

The days will be spent trekking throughout a stunning landscape, meeting friendly locals along the way and experiencing the food and culture of the people of the Fanns. Both their language and culture has been preserved ever since their ancestors lived here thousands of years ago when villages were placed near rivers.

Nights will be spent relaxing by the lakes, taking in the views and enjoying the local food before heading to our tents for a peaceful night’s sleep surrounded by nature.

As our trekking days come to an end we will be transported back to Dushanbe where we will enjoy the luxury of staying in a hotel after 11 nights camping! Here we will enjoy a celebratory meal and share stories and experiences of the trek before we head home the next day.

This is a fabulous trek to a spectacular location in a lesser known destination. If you are looking for a trek that offers something a bit different from the norm whilst being surrounded by nature and mountains with a great group of people this is ideal for you! One not to be missed, that’s for sure!

Your adventure awaits...to find out more about the itinerary and to book click here.

Should you have and further questions about this trek please feel free to get in touch with our Expedition Wise Team by emailing info@expeditionwise.com. We will be more than happy to help.

Grand Canyon Trek: 22nd - 30th September 2018

Stunning waterfalls, travertine formed streams and huge red sandstone canyon walls are just some of the incredible things you will see on this fantastic 5 day trek through the Grand Canyon.



Having flown from London to Phoenix, Arizona you will be transferred to your hotel where you will have chance to freshen up and get to know the group as you all relax over dinner, prior to a good night’s sleep as you prepare to start trekking the following day.

The next day you will depart Phoenix and head north through the Sonoran Desert and into the high elevation plateaus and red rock canyons of Sedona where you are introduced to your first hike in Red Rock State Park. This is an easy going acclimatisation 5-10km walk of about 300m height gain to help you acclimatise to the heat and get comfortable with walking with your kit. Just don’t forget to look up and admire the beautiful surroundings along the way! On finishing the trek the vehicles will be waiting for you to transport you across the Colorado Plateau to the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn where you will relax, enjoy dinner and prepare your kit for the next few days trekking. 

Today is the day! After an early breakfast you will be driven to the trailhead, which is perched at the edge of the canyon. This place is called Hualapai Hilltop (pronounced “Walapai”) and is the only land travel access to Havasupai. Starting at 5,200 feet (1,584 m) in elevation, the trail winds through a mile of switchbacks before levelling out in a dry streambed. After a trailside lunch, the red sandstone canyon walls seem to grow around you as you pass mile 8 and enter Supai, the most remote village in the U.S. where even the mail is still delivered by packhorse! Here at 3,200 feet (975 m) you can take a welcome rest stop before continuing to basecamp. 



The surroundings are stunning and you will experience multiple waterfalls along the way, culminating in your first glimpse of the famous and awe-inspiring 100-foot Havasu Falls. Just minutes from the falls is your basecamp at 2,800 feet (853 m). Tonight, you will enjoy a freshly prepared dinner and sleep under the stars deep in the Grand Canyon, an experience like no other!



Day 3 of the trek will see you head for adventure in the gem of the Grand Canyon – Beaver Falls. Here you will trek 14km from camp to Beaver Falls, exploring more hidden waterfalls and gorgeous lagoons in this idyllic setting. Today’s trek involves both a dry route and a wet route with options for swimming – an ideal way to cool off, water jumps for those feeling adventurous and a descent of the red rock via a short section of ladders and chains. You will then head back to base camp to rest your legs and chat with the group as you enjoy another delicious dinner before heading to your tents for a well-deserved sleep.




The penultimate day in the Grand Canyon will be another action packed day as you trek 14km from your camp to Carbonate Canyon explore caves, beautiful rock structures and have time to paddle, swim and relax in another beautiful waterfall. For those who are feeling brave there is an option for a low-grade scramble up to the Esplanade for an incredible bird’s eye view of the Canyon with all its different levels. Here you will be able to see your campsite, the waterfall at Beaver Falls, and across to Walapai where you started your journey from days prior. After another great day exploring more hidden gems of the canyon you will return to camp for your last night under the stars.







The last day in the canyon will see you rise very early to avoid the heat of the day as you trek 16-18km to the top of the Grand Canyon rim, a 700m rise in height gain. This is your last chance to take in the wonderful surroundings and views of this magical place as you ascend from paradise! The trek will be long and hot but what a beautiful location to spend your last day trekking as a group. 








On arrival at your pick up point you will be met by the vehicles who will transfer you to Las Vegas via the historic Route 66, stopping in the kitschy town of Seligman, Arizona to enjoy lunch. After a few hours on the road you will arrive at your hotel in Las Vegas where you will have time to freshen up before enjoying a celebratory meal together. Be prepared for the bright lights and noises of Las Vegas, which are a bit of a sensory overload and contrast to the surroundings you have experienced over the last few days! It’s certainly not an experience to be missed though!

The following day you will have a full day to explore after breakfast so be sure to see what Las Vegas has to offer including the neon lights of the strip, the fountains of the Bellagio and maybe catch a show after dinner in one of the many fantastic restaurants.



As all things eventually come to an end it, the next day it will be time to leave the bright lights of Las Vegas following an incredible experience of trekking through the Grand Canyon. After a late breakfast you will be transferred to the airport where you will fly home having met some fantastic people, made great friendships and created wonderful memories. This certainly isn’t an experience to be missed! 

More information can be found here or register your interest & receive updates straight to your inbox.

Additional Information – What’s included in the trip cost:
·       Experienced UK Mountain Leader/Medic leading the challenge
·       Expedition Wise Buff & Expedition Bag
·       International Flights inc. fuel levy & taxes
·       All Vehicle transfers
·       All accommodation in twin en-suite hotel/lodges out of the canyon
·       Accommodation in twin share tents whilst in the canyon
·       All food on the trek and in hotel/lodges
·       Water on the trek
·       All local guides, support etc. whilst on the trek

Expedition Wise Shortlisted for PIFA Awards 2015!

We are delighted to announce that we have bee shortlisted for the Institute of Fundraising 'Partners in Fundraising Awards 2015' for 'Best Special/Challenge Events Partner'.

We are a small company with a big heart who pride ourselves on providing incredible challenges for remarkable people who raise huge amounts for a whole host of charities.


For many years we have worked with a variety of incredible charities and individuals who have taken part in a wide range of challenges we provide. We are always so impressed by the people who take on such challenges while raising fantastic amounts for such worthwhile causes and pride ourselves on working closely with charities to help them to achieve their dreams too.


We are therefore delighted to have been shortlisted in this category and would like to take the opportunity to thank all those we have worked with and have supported us over the years.


The winner will be announced on the 29th of January so we will keep you posted!