On the 9th of November 2014 a team of 6 intrepid
adventurers will set off to Nepal, where we will embark on an incredible
journey to climb an unclimbed peak.
Located in the Lost Valleys region of the Himalaya, the
previously unclimbed peak ‘Nar Phu’ stands at approx 5921m in the far eastern
Chulu range. This is an area that is home to snow leopards and the isolated
Tibetan villages of Nar & Phu. It is relatively unexplored by both climbers
& trekkers.
This really is a once in a lifetime trip for many. How
incredible to explore an area where few have been and to be the first to stand
on a summit overlooking the Himalayas, with views across to Pisang Peak (6,091m) with
the Annapurnas beyond and the main peaks of the Chulu range to the west.
Four of the NarPhu Team in Snowdonia |
From our research studying maps and Google Earth, Nar Phu Peak is more of a ‘Trekking’ peak. Therefore, the ascent should not be overly
technical like a climbing peak but we will all be prepared with the right kit
and will have fixed ropes to be used if needed.
The Nar Phu Team members look at the route on the map |
There are many obstacles to overcome and things that could
affect whether the team are able to successfully summit the virgin peak. These
include injuries on route, altitude sickness, unknown territory, poor weather
conditions, stomach bugs, and a whole host of other things. There’s also the
issue of whether we will be granted permission to climb the mountain from the
village Lama as many of the peaks are seen as deities by the local Tibetans in
Nar village and it may be that they would find westerners climbing it
disrespectful. We require the Lama to give us permission so that we can carry
out a Puja, a Buddhist blessing ceremony, as otherwise, our Sherpas would not accompany
us. It would be both disrespectful and dangerous to continue on without them
and in essence, our Unclimbed Peak Expedition could end right there before it
had really begun.
It is these elements of the unknown that makes an expedition
such as this all the more intriguing and exciting and indeed challenging.
Perhaps it would be a less attractive adventure if it involved following a well
known path, climbing a much ascended mountain and following in the footsteps of
many trekkers who have stood on the summit.
From our first
day of trekking, it will take 7 days to reach the virgin territory where NarPhu
Peak stands and the truly unknown meets us. Here we will have left the main
trekking path having spent a tough day ascending Kang La at 5,306m and need to explore
the area to source a suitable Base Camp. Standing in the Chulu range, the ever
present view of the mountain will be a constant reminder of why we are there.
Once Base Camp
is set up, we plan to spend the next day resting, acclimatising and discussing
possible routes to the peak. As the east end of the Chulu range is relatively
unexplored, our route planning so far has evolved from looking at maps and
Google Earth images of the peaks. It is only when we are actually at Base Camp that
we will be able to determine what route would be best to take to the summit and
evaluate the conditions on the ground and high up on the ridgeline. Again, poor
weather conditions could now abruptly bring this expedition dead in its tracks
as it could be that the snow conditions are too dangerous to ascend.
All being
well in terms of weather conditions, acclimatisation and general health, our
plan is to spend the next day ascending a neighbouring unclimbed, unnamed peak
at 5890m. This will allow the team to experience the type of climbing we will
be doing on the main ascent, testing our ascent skills, getting comfortable
with our kit and surroundings and ultimately building our confidence ahead of
the main summit attempt a couple of days later.
With another
day of rest and preparation for the main climb the next day, the team will no
doubt be experiencing mixed feelings that often arise prior to such a
challenge. Here it will be important to pull together and work together to
ensure everyone is ready to go for the summit. It will also be a time to
reflect as to why we are here, take in the stunning scenery and appreciate that
moment of being in unexplored territory, for many a once in a lifetime
experience.
Fingers
crossed everyone will be in tip-top condition, well acclimatised, feeling
strong, determined and ready to go. Though nervous I am sure we will be, we
must eat and sleep well for tomorrow we will begin our ascent of Nar Phu.
Summit Day:
It will be 15 days since we left the UK to embark on this adventure, with 10
days of trekking to lead us to this point. After an early start, we will
attempt the ascent of the mighty Nar Phu Peak, with hopes of great conditions
and a safe and successful summit bid. Here we will also be able to accurately
measure the true height of the mountain.
Nar Gate on the route to Nar Phu Peak |
If all goes well, we will then stand on the summit of Nar Phu Peak as the first people to climb this mountain. After months of planning, training and dreaming about the expedition we can only hope that we achieve what we came to do and more, to climb the mountain, to experience the unknown and to achieve the amazing.
What if we
don’t? Nothing good has come from negative thinking so we try to not focus too
much on the ‘what ifs’ at this point. If it is meant to be it will be and if
not, nothing is wasted and we will be thankful for everything experienced on
this truly remarkable expedition.
Hopefully
our team’s story will be one of success and a safe descent back to Base Camp
where we will take a moment to reflect on our achievement before trekking down
to the village of Ngawal, looking back every now and again for our last view of
NarP hu Peak where we stood only hours before. Here we will stay overnight to be
met the next day by our helicopters that will fly us out to Pokara. What better
way to end this incredible adventure than to fly through the Himalayas, passing
7000+m snow capped mountains as we go.
Once the
helicopter lands in Pokara we will then take a commercial flight to Kathmandu
where we will have time for a shower (the first in a long time!), enjoy a
celebratory meal and sleep in a proper bed! The next day we will visit the
Ministry of Tourism where we will have to take all our documentation and
evidence to prove we actually did reach the summit of Nar Phu. This is quite a detailed affair which
includes showing the route we took, photos of us at the summit and
GPS/Altimeter readings at the summit. We will also need to meet the famous
Elizabeth Hawley who has been officially recording all new summits and new
routes for the last 50 years and is a legend in the climbing world. As her decision is final, this could make or
break the success of the Unclimbed Peak Expedition. Sure, we will know did it
but if it isn’t in the log book it isn’t seen as a first ascent!
Team Training weekend on the hills of Snowdonia |
In between now and November (which really isn’t far away at all) the Team will continue to
train, as well as sort out all the administration needed for such an expedition
including visas, purchasing final bits of kit, Travel Insurance, Mountain
Rescue cover etc.
Practising rope techniques on the Team Training Day |
There’s a
lot to think about and to prepare for such a trip, but all the hard work will
be worth it to stand on the summit of NarPhu, knowing that we are the first
people to do so.
Good Luck
Team NarPhu & safe travels!